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The wind was brutal again. How can people live out here in these conditions? I past a farm house where a lady was putting up clothes on the line. It was blowing all over the place. I bet it dried in seconds in this wind.

At the ferry, I ran in to Remy, Andy, and Anja, all from Zurich, Switzerland. Remy was riding a Transalp he rented, while Andy and Anja were two up on a GS. They met each other on the road a few weeks earlier. We were all going to Puerto Natales so I decided to tag along.

Came across this abandoned town that had some ship wrecks.

The wind remained fierce. The bikes were sucking down the gas fighting the wind so we stopped at a gas station to fuel up. Unfortunately their tanks were empty, but the owner assured us that a delivery would arrive in less than 2 hours. So we waited.

Waiting for what seemed like forever.

I can’t recall how many times the owner told us just 15 more minutes, but roughly 4 hours later a truck did arrive and we were good to go again.

Mmmm, precious fuel.

The wind picked up even more. To the point it was almost dangerous. Remy with his lighter Transalp was really struggling. We decided to call it a day in a little nondescript town we came across. The problem was it had no hotel and setting up a tent in this wind would have been really tough, if not impossible. Fortunately we found accommodations in a row of small kiosks being built next to a rodeo arena. There were three that were not locked so we each had our own room.

Hanging out in the rodeo arena hiding from the cold wind.

Made for a fun night.

H


Left Ushuaia on an absolutely gorgeous day. Ushuaia is located in such a nice area. It’s odd how it takes days of traveling through nothingness to get here. I’m glad that such a nice place is the reward after persevering Argentina’s windy flat lands.

But once I hit the flat lands the sun disappeared and it got cold again. After passing back in to Chile, I tried a different route back to the ferry crossing. But it was more of the same.

Spent that night in Cerro Sombrero at a small hotel that was recommended to me.

The hotel had two price options. One room had a private bath while the other was shared. The price difference was huge so I opted for the shared bath. Just like a dorm in a hostel I figured. I’m used to that. But damn, this place was used by oil workers and the bathroom was simply nasty. What the hell do they feed these guys? That night I found out.

The attached restaurant served a single dish. It was some kind of pan fried flat mystery meat. It had no real taste that I can describe. It was edible, but I prayed that this stuff wouldn’t come back to haunt me. That night the oil workers stayed up late watching their soaps. Can’t believe how popular soaps are down here.

H


Tons of touristy things to do in Ushuaia. They had a little steam train you could take in to the Parque Nacional Tierre del Fuego.

They crammed us in like cattle. Mooo…

Than a boat ride on the Beagle Channel.

Thought these were penguins at first, but they are not (and of course I forget what they are called. In one ear, right out the other.)

An Antarctica bound ship.

Finally some penguins.

The boat dropped us off at Ranch Harberton.

Next a visit to a husky sled dog training camp.

More of the area surrounding Ushuaia.

Back to downtown Ushuaia.

I took an insane number of pictures of Ushuaia and the surrounding area. You can find them in a separate folder in my picture archive if interested. Ushuaia was a pretty cool town. Lots to see and do. Definitely worth the visit.

H


Victory!!! Ushuaia, the end of the road. The farthest south town accessible by road. The end of the Pan American highway. And here is that must have shot.

All this trouble just for a single photo? I must have taken a good dozen just in case.

Yeah I know, what a dork!

So what does one do in Ushuaia? Its actually a pretty big tourist destination and there is a lot to see. So I got in to tourist mode and checked the place out. First a view of the town from above.

And below

Went to the little town museum.

Ushuaia was once a prison colony.

On to something more interesting. Hike up the mountain to the glacier. You could take a chair lift, but walking seemed better.

There were some people skiing it.

Ushuaia is a nice little town. Way better than Prudhoe Bay which was nothing more than an industrial zone. I’ll have no problem staying here for a bit.

H


The most direct way to Ushuaia is also the worst road imaginable in Argentina. Not that the road is dirt or difficult. It’s just completely flat with a really wicked cross wind. I was able to measure the wind at around 70 mph one day. I could put my hand out and there would be no wind resistance at all. I could have lit a match. It was like riding through a vacuum. Ruby didn’t like it at all, because she started to over heat. No wind over the oil cooler.

The battle was relentless. The entire day was spent riding side ways down long flat roads. I kept thinking to myself, “Do I really need to ride to Ushuaia?” It was beyond miserable. And there would be three days of this!!!! Aaargh!!

Stopping to take pictures is easier said than done on this road. The wind is so strong it could knock Ruby right over.

Probably the only redeeming thing about this road was the endless sky. It stretched forever in all directions. You could see storms miles off in the distance. It was pretty cool.

I stayed in a few nameless towns on my way south. I was so beat by the end of each day, all I wanted was some food, beer, and a warm bed. This kind of riding is simply no fun at all.

After three days I did finally make it to the ferry that crosses over in to Tierra del Fuego. I met a group of Brazilians here waiting for the ferry. They took so many pictures of themselves posing next to signs it was a bit comical.

On the other side, we all posed in front of the Tierra del Fuego sign.

And than it was on to Ushuaia. This section of the road; actually just before the ferry and than roughly another 140km later; are two border crossings. You cross from Argentina in to Chile and than back to Argentina. So this day consisted of a lot of waiting at borders.

I stopped for the day in a small town called Tolhuim just before Ushuaia. I figured I could get to Ushuaia early the next day and do some bike maintenance.

Only one day from traversing the length of the Americas.

H

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