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I was told that the road between Nazca and Cusco was one of the nicest roads in Peru. It did not disappoint. It was so nice to get out of the hot desert and in to some elevation. The road peaked at 15,000 feet.

I finally saw some Lamas too. They have the funniest faces.

On route I ran in to Felipe and Carolina from Colombia. They were doing a three week tour on a 1150. We decided to ride together. Really good people.

We made it all the the way Abancay and spent the night. Tomorrow it should be just a few hours to Cuzco.


The Nazca lines were drawn out in the desert sand between 200 BC and 700 AD. You can only really see them from the air so why they were created in the first place remains a bit of a mystery. Kat and Louis joined me as we took to the air to see what this is all about.

The plane:

State of the art instrument panel:

Our very capable pilot who told me not to worry about the flashing low fuel warning light:

And we’re off:

Im the co-pilot:


Moon man:






I forget:

Hands and something else. These I saw from the observation tower the day before. The tower gives some size perspective.

And we’re back:

The plane banked and rolled steeply to allow better views of the lines. Seems that everyone on board (except me and the pilot) got a little air sick. Back at the airport many people looked a bit green. Despite this we all thought it was well worth checking out.


Huacachina is one of those places I heard about on the road. Had I not been told, I would have missed one of the funnest places in Peru. Huacachina is an oasis, a lagoon surrounded by sand dunes. You can take rides in sand buggies up and down the dunes. Like a roller coaster ride. Loved it.


Sand Buggy:

I hung out with two kiwis, Kat & Louis.

I tried sand boarding as well. Ok, not really sand boarding rather sand sledding. I’ve never snow boarded before, and the people who have said that sand boarding is completely different from snow boarding. I saw no one successfully do it. The sand just gives way and doesn’t let the board cut in like snow. So I just layed on the board and shot down the dune. Good fun.

I wanted to make Cusco for New Years so I hit the road for Nazca right after.

First glimpse of the Nazca lines:

Tomorrow Ill take an airplane ride to check them out from above.

And one last desert highway shot just for the hell of it:


Next morning it was on to Lima, Peru’s largest city and through more endless desert.

However, things became more interesting as we got closer to Lima. The number of cops on the side off the roads increased ten fold. We got stopped five times for speeding and illegal passing. Fortunately, Chris is completely fluent in Spanish and got us out of all five tickets. In one case, he even got the cops to apologize for stopping us in the first place. Very impressed.

This would be my first Christmas away from home. Im a bit sentimental so I wanted to stay at a nice small family run hostel where I’d hopefully find a nice group of people to hang with on Christmas eve. (Yes, behind this tough moto exterior, I have a soft side.) So I busted out the lonely planet and found one that seemed to meet the description.

We made it to Lima, and instead of my usual method of hailing a cab and following, Chris figured he could find the hostel. After asking countless directions, stopping to let my over heating bike cool twice, and roughly two hours later of fighting relentless traffic, we did eventually find the hostel we were looking for. Sorry but the cab trick still works best.

The hostel was a great little family run place. They cooked everyone staying there a really nice Christmas dinner. It was exactly what I was looking for. We all stayed up late in to the evening telling tall tales of our adventures. It was the next best thing to not being back at home with family.

I ended up staying here for about four days. I was going to leave earlier but was told that a spiritual healer was coming over and may be able to help me with my bad ticker. So I figured what the hell, what do I have to lose?

The spiritual healer gave me a private session up stairs on the roof patio. She asked me if I believed in God, and had me read the ten commandments out load. However, I think the translation to English was a bit off, because at one point it said feel free to kill your neighbor. Damn, this is one tough god.

Next came a lot of hand and facial gesturing as she read my body and spoke with god in the spiritual world. Turns out my heart is ok, I just have bad blood and need to lay off the french fries. Fortunately for me there is a cure. First came a body cleansing with water. The water never actually touched me, but it was still able to absorb the nasties out of my blood. Next came an olive oil treatment. I was given some to drink, and than the rest was poured over my head and rubbed on to my chest. I wasn’t suppose to bathe for at least a day as the oil did its work. Than it was time to take some medicine. I was given invisible pills that I swallowed down. Finally she gave me a list of teas and herbal medicines I should take over the next four months. A bit difficult to do from the road, but will follow the regiment when Im back at home.

Afterward I actually felt a bit better. Nothing like hanging with the spirits and all oiled up. I figured Id better cover all my bases, so I bought three offerings to be burned at an altar on the following weekend. Now Im well on my way to being 100% Hallelujah!

I was told to check out this web site:

And this footage to get an idea of what is to become of my offerings:

I took off that same day still all oiled up and headed south toward Huacachina.

Sorry but no pics in this episode. I noticed my small camera was missing shortly after leaving Lima. Not too upset as the memories from this place will be etched in my mind forever. Unforgettable.


After Chan Chan, Chris and I continued through endless desert. There really wasn’t much to photograph. The weather was overcast and everything was gray.

I tend to relax on long hauls and ride pretty slow. Chris on the other hand is an ex-motorcycle racer. He kept me moving at a good pace through terrain that didn’t change much.

Leo recommended that we spend the night in Tortugas, a small fishing village off the beaten path.

Secure parking:

Guarded by this guy:

Taking a shower that night, I was attacked by cockroaches. They came out of the shower drain. Huge ones. Not too pleasant to be naked and have roaches scamper across your feet. Fortunatly I had my boot right next to the shower and death was administered quickly. Despite that, it was a good call to stop here. Nice pleasant little town.


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