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We hung out at the ruins all day. It’s a huge complex with the sun and moon pyramids fully restored. They say these pyramids are larger than the Egyptian ones.

The Moon Pyramid

The Sun Pyramid

Many people were sacrificed here. While checking out the museum, I attached myself to a group that had a tour guide. He said that people wanted to be sacrificed to the gods, and were lining up just for the opportunity. They would have mass sacrifices every 50 years or so. I always thought it was slaves or people they wanted to get rid of. The method of execution ranged from ripping out the heart to smashing in the head.

Most people headed straight to the top of the largest pyramid (the sun pyramid), but I found it a lot more interesting to hang at one of the lower levels. No one was around and you could walk around the whole thing and just take the whole place in. It wasn’t that hard to imagine the metropolis that surrounded this area.


Today we visited the ruins at Tula de Allende. It was not a huge place, but there were plenty of workers restoring it. Its main attraction were these statues.

From there we went to Teotihuacan. We took a bunch of red roads on the map. These are the rural roads and while they are a lot slower and harder to navigate, they are without a doubt a lot more fun. They take you through the little towns and give you an excellent view of Mexico’s interior. Unlike the toll roads where you blast by everything. I can’t stand them.

We didn’t make Teotihuacan early enough to get in to the place so it will have to wait until morning.

Had a good look at myself in the mirror tonight. My god, I’m disintegrating. That California tan is long gone. Muscles seemed to have atrophied, leaving a pale pot belly in its place. This bike trip is definitely taking its toll. Need to force myself in to an exercise routine. Scary sight for sure.


We left Zacatecas and headed for Guanajuato.  On the way my bike hit the 36,000 mile mark. No more warranty.

If you look closely you can see some rosary beads hanging from the windshield support. The military check point people seem to love them, and they haven’t hassled me as much.

The ride to Guanajuato was pretty uneventful.  Just before the city you hit some curves, but that’s about it.

The city itself is nestled between the mountains so you come upon it suddenly. We rode to the city center and discovered a huge labyrinth of tunnels that lie underneath the whole city.  Back in the day, this was an underground network of sewage canals. Today they’ve been converted to roads. Its an enormous underground maze that defies description. You have to experience it for yourself. There is parking and intersections all underground.

Like Zacatecas, we decided we needed to spend an extra day here.

We came across a plaza where groups of musicians were playing.  It was almost like a battle of the bands. They all dressed in velvet with stockings that went up to their knees. On top of this, some were adorned with long colorful award ribbons. Not sure if the ribbons were for actual wins in competition or just flare. I got the impression that they may have all come from the local university. Regardless they were fun to watch and the crowd loved it.

Guanajuato is a great little town. It’s not hard to get lost. If you lose your way in the maze of streets, just head down and you’ll end up on the main road. The town is in a valley. There are little squares everywhere and someone always playing music.

On this particular day, there was something going on. In one area the place was swarming with policia and military. Typically you see them all carrying H&K G3 combat rifles, but in this group I saw few UZIs. The first Ive seen here. They had some streets blocked. Perhaps some one important was visiting.


Zacatecas is an old colonial city. All I can say is what an amazing place. After the hell hole Durango, Zacatecas is just a breath of fresh air. We took the entire day to just check out the city.

Look as she breaks the chains of confinement and flies free.  Hurray for Mexico.

We started by taking the aerial tram way to the top of La Bufa. It gave us a beautiful unobstructed view of the city.

Pancho Villa defeated government forces here during the Revolution here. There was a museum at the top commemorating the event, but they did not allow any photography. Very unfortunate. It had one of the coolest collections of old weapons on display.

Afterwards we took a tour of the Rafael Coronel Museum. The place was once a school for Jesuits. They had an enormous collection of native masks on display. Room after room. It was sensory overload. In the end, we skipped a few rooms. It was just too much. Plus, it was closing time and the staff was trying to shuffle us out.

I though this was an odd painting:

I think this was my favorite:

Than we took a look at the aqueduct. Part of it is preserved in the middle of the city.

It seems every corner of this city has something to offer. I could easily spend a few more days here. You can tell the people are very proud of their city, and they are very friendly. I felt right at home here.

In the evening, bands would play and walk around the city with huge groups of people dancing in tow. They would stop at various places and tie up traffic. Everyone loved it. I was even offered some tequila by one of the bands.

In conclusion, all I can say is that Zacatecas is a must visit for anyone coming to Mexico. Absolutely loved the place, and could easily spend more days here. There was just too much to see in two days.


Gray skies and a straight boring road was on the agenda for today. It was hard to stay awake. Cresting one hill after another, we got our hopes up each time for a curve. But the road didn’t waiver an inch. Completely the opposite of the previous days ride. The weather sucked too.

It was one of those kind of roads where your mind begins to wander. Asking itself all sorts of questions. The ones you rather avoid. What the hell are you doing? Shouldn’t you be back at home making babies and working on a career? What about retirement? What are you doing about that? You’re an adult now, its time to be responsible and stop with these foolish things….. Shut up brain.

We made it to Durango and found a hotel in the city center. We wanted secure parking so they let us park the bikes in the lobby. It was quite interesting trying to get the bikes through the door though. The street was under construction so we road down the sidewalk to the dismay of many pedestrians. Following that we had to negotiate the doorway. It was just wide enough for the bikes. With a bit of persuasion we made it in.

The hotel itself was pretty cool inside. Large in door court yards with 3 story ceilings. Old molding, an amazing place. The rooms on the other hand were not the kind of place you would want to spend any time in, but what can you expect for $18.

Durango did not seem like a friendly town. We walked through the center square and felt really out of place. A drunkard approached us and told us he was from Canada and rambled on forever but nonsense. Another approached immediately after, but we just walked away. There was no doubt we were the only gringos in town.

These days its becoming increasingly hard to get good internet. Typically you go to the lobby of the hotel to get close to the router, and than the speed is pretty slow. So future updates will probably be sporadic.

Thanks everyone for your comments. Wish I could respond to everyone, but these days I’m just lucky to find a way to post.

Take care.


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